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The Glassblower (PH 10-11)(February 1978) (16 pages)

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Page: of 16

adatal
by Tom Jacobs
Lager and Boca. To beer drinkers from the late 1870s through the early 1890s
these words were synonymous. Lager, naturally, refers to lager beer and Boca to
Boca Beer, the popular product of the once famous Boca Brewing Company.
Before the history of the Boca Brewery is revealed, it is important to understand
the nature of lager beer as well as the conditions and events that brought a large
brewery to a small town in the Sierra Nevada.
Bottom fermentation, the process used in the production of lager beer, was
originated in Bavaria in the early 1830s. Prior to this time all beers, principally
ales and porters, were made using top fermentation. This brewing technique had
one great disadvantage in that a beer was produced that would become gradually
sour by contact with the air. Bottom fermenting beers did not have this problem
and could be stored in half-full barrels, as well as full ones, without regard to the
deleterious effects of air.
John Wagner of Philadelphia brewed the first lager in the United States in
1840, using bottom fermenting yeast brought from a brewery in Bavaria where ~
he had been brewmaster. Lager, with its light and mild character and superior
storage capabilities, soon became the predominant form of beer, almost displacing the manufacture of ales and porters in the Midwest.
California, with the great influx of immigrants brought about by the discovery
of gold in the late 1840s, would certainly have participated in the brewing of
lager beer, had it not been lacking in one material—cheap and plentiful ice. Low
temperatures, near freezing, are required in the fermenting of lager beer, and in
the days before artificial refrigeration large quantities of ice were necessary in
the brewing process. There was abundant ice in the mountains of California, but
during the 1850s and most of the 1860s there was no means of transportation
available to bring ice to the brewers. Ice was brought to California via ships from
Alaska, but this ice at $25 a ton was too costly to be used in brewing, and in
any case shipments were too irregular to be counted upon. Early California brewers were therefore forced by necessity to brew without ice. Ale and porter, which
ferment at unaltered cellar temperatures, were brewed as well as steam beer, a
bottom fermenting beer, developed by the clever California brewers to be made
without refrigeration.
The outbreak of civil war in 1860 focused attention on the need for a transcontinental railroad linking the nearly isolated and vulnerable west coast with
the rest of the nation. The Central Pacific Railroad Company of California was
incorporated in 1861 with the purpose of building eastward across the Sierra
Nevada. In 1867 Boca was a construction camp on the CPRR located eight miles
east of Truckee, California at the junction of the Little Truckee River with the
main stream. Natural resources were abundant in this area, and the coming of
the railroad suddenly provided a means by which they could be exploited. The
Boca Mill and Ice Company was formed in 1868 with extensive land holdings in
the Boca area. Lumbering was carried on around Boca by this firm, and nearby
Diges.