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The Nisenan Photographs of Alexander W. Chase (2016) (15 pages)

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Page: of 15

322 Journal of California and Great Basin Anthropelogy . Vol. 36, Ho. 2 (2016)
The men in the next two figures can neither be
identified nor clearly assigned to a specific time or
place, although both are possibly Nisenan and both
are probably chiefs. I would again argue that early
photographers would have been most strongly (and
understandably) inclined to focus on capturing images
of those individuals—such as chiefs—that held the most
clearly recognizable and important social positions
in native communities. The young man in Figure 8 is
wearing European-style clothing, but is holding a skin
quiver of arrows and has what appears to be a rather
elaborate cloth hairnet or head covering held im place
by a fancy hairpin. In 1978, Palmquist (1978:163) believed
this to be the sole surviving pre-1860 daguerreotype of
a California Indian. Figure 9 is an 1880 woodcut, clearly
based on an earlier daguerreotype, that depicts a man
holding a bow and some arrows. He is wearing a necklace
consisting of a single strand of beads from which a series
of rectangular abalone bangles are suspended, and his
hair is covered by a bead-decorated woven net.
I find the frequent reoccurrence of particular
items of apparel—such as elaborate hairnets, decorated
hairpins, and necklaces consisting of rectangular abalone
bangles—in these images interesting and suggestive,
although certainly not definitive. All of the men depicted
are clearly wealthy and important individuals, and most
can be identified as chiefs. With the exception of the
men in Figure 5, all are shown in more quotidian than
formal or ceremonial contexts, so the items of regalia
that are being wom were not apt to be reserved for use
on special occasions only, though they may have been
restricted in their use in other ways. Ethnohistoric and
ethnographic data on the subject, unfortunately, are
sparse and sporadically distributed in both time and
space, although they do provide some useful clues.
West of the Sacramento Valley, most of our
information on early nineteenth-century Indian dress
and adornment comes from visitors to the various
mission communities established by the Spanish and
tends to be rather generalized; native social distinctions
are usually ignored or not explicitly addressed. Extant
images from the period, such as those of Louis Choris,
tend either to show men dressed in elaborate, formal
dance costumes or in everyday mission garb, although
both Choris and Mikhail Tikhanov did depict a few
group scenes involving more mundane activities such as
hunting or gambling. One remarkable 1818 watercolor by
Tikhanov is particularly interesting; it depicts the death
of a Coast Miwok chief at Bodega Bay and the possible
investiture of another (Fig. 10). A man in the foreground
of the picture—perhaps the chief-to-be? —is holding
an elaborate feather headdress that may have been a
symbol of chiefly rank; he is also wearing what appears
to be a beaded haimet and hairpin (Hudson and Bates
2015:Fig. 7.6, p. 118). Later ethnographic information
indicates that among the Pomo, both men and women
commonly wore hairnets and hairpins, although
elaborate, beaded hairnets and fancy hairpins similar
to those present in early nineteenth-century Russian
collections (see Hudson and Bates 2015:126-32) were
apparently worn only by members of the secret society
on special occasions (Loeb 1926:156-157, 270).
For the Sacramento Valley and Sierra foothills,
where most of the later mid-nineteenth-century images
under discussion originate, we have only a handful of
pertinent comments. C. Hart Merriam, for example,
briefly noted (1967) that among the Choohelmemsel
Patwin, several types of men’s haimmets were recognized
and employed in different contexts:
Hair net for men. Ordinary kind, kit-te’-ko; for rich
people, buk-cher-ro; beaded and very valuable, hisse’cher-ro. During the ceremonies the leader of the
dance wears a headdress called poo’-ta, the crown
piece of which is of the white down of the snow goose.
The occiput piece, called li’-e, projects backward from
the back of the head and consists of a dense bunch
or large rosette of tail feathers of the magpie, wom
horizontally (pointing backward). The leader of the
dance also wears on each side of his head a forked
feather pin standing out sideways. This consists of
two white feathers (sometimes three), each five or six
inches in length, attached to a wooden pin [Merriam
1967272].
Among the Sierra Miwok, Barrett and Gifford
(1933) also observed significant variations in the use of
hairnets and hairpins:
The hair net..was worn for dancing, gambling, and
when wishing to be dressed up about the house. It was
not worn when hunting. Sometimes young women
wore the hair net, when dressed for dancing, but it was
not worn by old women. The chief might wear daily a
hair net, sometimes a beaded one. Other men usually
did not wear a hair net daily, as this was regarded as
the chief's privilege [1933:223].
The feather plume..consisted of feathers tied
upon a stick about a foot long and about the diameter