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The Nisenan Photographs of Alexander W. Chase (2016) (15 pages)

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Page: of 15

ARTICLE . A New Look At Some Old Data: The Nisenan Photographs of Alexander W. Chase . Blackburn 317
The hawok was all in one string, and contained
1,160 pieces. Tom was very proud of this, and would
suffer no one but his wife to be photographed wearing
it [Fig. 2]. The kolkol was strung in a double string, the
shells lying face to face; it is slightly esteemed. The “red
alabaster,” brought from Sonoma, was in the form of
a cylinder, about as large as one’s little finger, an inch
long, drilled lengthwise, and forming the front piece in
a string of shell-beads worn by Captain Tom’s baby.
One of the girdles, pacha, was decorated with 214 small
pieces of abalone; the hair-net contained about 100.
Following is a list of articles of dress and omament
worn by the Nishinam, which with a change of names
would answer for nearly all the tribes of Central
California: (1) The hare-skin robe, often trimmed with
ground-squirrel tails, generally used as bedding, but
sometimes worn in the rainy season. (2) The breechcloth of hetcheled and braided tule-grass, worn by
women. (3) Shek’-ki, a hair-net, made of the inner
bark of the milkweed, woven with large meshes,
fitting the head like a skull-cap, drawn tight by a string
running around the edge. The hair was twisted into
a hard knot behind the head, and into this was stuck
a plume. (4) Mok’-kus, about a foot long, consisting
of a stick wreathed with red woodpecker scalps and
having at the end a cluster of pieces of abalone-shell
or a little flag of yellowhammer’s feathers. Worn only
by the men when going to a dance. (5) To’-lai, the
mantle of black, long feathers, eagle’s or hawk’s, often
mentioned in these pages, worn on the back, from the
armpits down to the knees, only by men and those
generally shamans. (6) Pa’-cha, the wide deer-skin
girdle, studded with bits of abalone, worn by women
around the waist; nowadays generally made of scarlet
cloth and covered thick with bead-work. (7) Chi’-lak,
the bandeau of yellowhammer’s feathers, laid butt to
tip alternately, and strung on two strings; worn by both
sexes in the dance. (8) Kak’-ki, the narrow bandeau of
fur, worn tight around the head by both sexes in the
dance. Seen all over California, nowadays generally
supplanted by a handkerchief. (9) Bon’noh, omaments,
generally made of a large bird’s wing-bones, with red
woodpecker’s down and pieces of abalone at one
end; worn thrust through the lobe of the ear or the
septum of the nose by both sexes. (10) Wuk’-ter-hin,
(“one-hanger” or “single-hanger”), the large abalone
gorget worn by men in a dance. The shell-money, often
worm by women, has been already described. In the
yomussi dance the women carry bows and arrows for
ornaments [Powers 1877:335-39].
Much of our information on the nature and uses
of such regalia in early Central California societies (as
summarized in Bates 1982) comes from the kind of
historical photographs presented here, which usually
depict individuals engaged in highly formalized ritual
activities (Bates 1984).
Although the primary focus of Powers’ discussion is
on wealth and the economic value of the articles owned
by a particular elite family, it should be kept in mind that
most of these also constituted important items of regalia,
items that had significant social and cultural connotations
with nuances that we will probably never be able to fully
reconstruct. Some (such as the shell bead money and
magnesite cylinder) were primarily articles of wealth with
a mostly economic significance, while others (such as the
flicker-quill headband, hairpin, and abalone gorget) were
certainly articles of regalia indicative of their owner’s
social status. The photographs of the Lewis family are
somewhat misleading in that every cherished item they
possess has been donned for the occasion, probably with
the encouragement of the photographer, and combined
in a manner that was probably far from traditional. The
flicker-quill headband would normally be worn only in
the context of a ceremonial dance, while a hairnet or
hairpin could also be worn in a secular context, and might
very well have had sociopolitical implications as well.
While most surviving early to mid nineteenthcentury images of Native Californians (both drawings
and photographs) are relatively uninformative with
regard to the social status of the individuals depicted or
the circumstances surrounding the making of the image,
there are a few interesting exceptions. Figure 5, which
is entered in the George Eastman House catalogue
as “Maidu Headmen with Treaty Commissioners,” by
an unknown maker, is almost certainly one of the 300
‘lost’ daguerreotypes created by Robert H. Vance in
California (Palmquist 1978); it was originally listed in
Vance’s catalogue as “View of Indian Commissioners,
Dr. Wozencraft, Col. Johnson, and clerks, in a treaty
with the Indians,” and was made in August, 1851 at
Bidwell’s Ranch. The four chiefs standing behind the
commissioners are wearing Western-style pants and
shirts, but their headgear and ornaments are both
traditional and presumably appropriate for such an
essentially political occasion. The elaborate hairpins two
of the chiefs are wearing are particularly noteworthy.
The remarkable, often exquisitely detailed images
created by the artist Henry B. Brown in the Sierra
foothills and Sacramento Valley in 1851—2 (Blackburn
2006) probably have the greatest potential for supplying
us with useful clues regarding symbolic aspects of
native regalia. Brown’s drawings, which range in tone