Historical Clippings Book - Fashion (HC-17) (451 pages)

Frock Coats AndTallHats ~ Were Classic Garb In 1839 Styles in men’s clothes change so imperceptibly from year to year that any innovation immediately is singled out as revolutionary. The fact remains, however, that if women were emancipated from “‘dust collector” skirts, ponderous petticoats and long hair during the last century, then men, too, were freed for their attire became classic for its simple, utilitarian lines. Attire Still Colorful True, trousers had _ triumphed over breeches by the time Sutter founded Sacramento, but even at that time men’s clothes had not yet abandoned all color in deference to the growing fashion for black. Dandies of the day sported frock coats, which gave an almost feminine appearance to the male figure, and dress coats also were extremely waisted. Tall hats reached a new high, waistcoats were ultra elaborate and trousers, well, they were so tight they were uncomfortable. The ‘Dicky’ Dies Some cravats were worn, but they gradually were disappearing in favor of narrow ties over which the shirt collar could be folded. The shirt with an inset breast of fine linen had replaced the “dicky,” or separate shirt front. “And side whiskers, worn with a moustache, were not uncommon. “By 1860, the sack coat and hard round hat made their appearance. Attire became exceptionally sombre, with the fancy waistcoat disappearing to be succeeded by one made of the same material as the coat. eee Trousers were strongly patterned. They Wore Curls, Too In general, men were heavily bearded and if they shaved at all it was only the upper lip. Often the hair was brushed forward to produce curls above the ear. The sack coat, a decade later, had become intrenched firmly and had taken on a degree of informality that made it look not unlike the favored lounge suit of today. The trousers were of a different material and color than the coat and waistcoat, but the outfit approached today’s costume much closer than that of any period up to this time. Straw Hat Introduced By 1880, men’s dress had as-. sumed its modern hue and cut, especially formal attire. Five years later, men still were clinging to the silk topper for ordinary wear, but the straw hat had been introduced and was enjoying exceptional popularity. The bowler hat also was new. Whiskers. no longer were worn, but the moustache, in all manner of forms, universally was worn. During the Gay ’90s, men took to the “Norfolk jacket” like a duck to water and they still sported moustaches. Frequently they wore a collar that was high all the way around, with a rather small tie. HIGH STYLE OF 1851 shows gay blades with pegged cuffs, long coats, , tapered waists, rolled lapels—all features which resemble 1954’s sharp notes. Hoops Caused Mishaps, Caustically Criticized _Numerous are the tales of accidents which happened to followers of the hoop fashion—one woman told how her frock stood out so far it reached into the fireplace and she nearly burned to death. In Watson’s “Annals” (1856) under the heading “Hoops Again,” this caustic arraignment of the fashion says: “We had hoped that our Jadies would never again.be brought to use such ill-looking, useless and deforming appendages to their dresses. They are, too, so anlnoying and engrossing of place and room in omnibuses, rail cars and in church pews and aisles. Ladies who profess to be Christjans and communicants, ‘~», pledged ‘to renounce the \ 1 pomp and vanities of the wo ld, and not be led thereby’, go up to the sacramental altar, showing before the eyes of all behold-! ers an unseemly vanity!” Then, there was the rise and fall of crinoline—and of course women divided into two camps, for and against. But with the swelling of skirts, crinoline became less “ridiculous” and was worn almost universally. Deep collars were worn and bonnets became more shallow in the crown, worn back from the face. Shawls Were Popular During the Fifties Throughout_the 50's. cashmaroe shawls and inexpensive imitations of them were worn quite generally and in the summer Tunisian shawls, manufactured from silk refuse and usually woven in stripes of two colors, were worn. For the theater, a favorite garment was the AIgerian burnous—a material of silk and goat’s hair mixture, full with flowing lines of an Arabian mantel, with a sort of hood finished with a tassel. In 1859 the beaver hat, with) long ostrich feathers was worn. Fashionable shape of hats for! several years then became—the shallow crown and soft, wide drooping brim. Hair was arranged on top of the head in heavy braids, worn like a coronet, with tirras of velvet and pearls, jet or coral for accent. Ruffled dresses were replaced with panelled skirts, in which two materials, a plain and an embossed or broacaded fabric, were combined.

Frock Coats AndTallHats ~ Were Classic Garb In 1839 Styles in men’s clothes change so imperceptibly from year to year that any innovation immediately is singled out as revolutionary. The fact remains, however, that if women were emancipated from “‘dust collector” skirts, ponderous petticoats and long hair during the last century, then men, too, were freed for their attire became classic for its simple, utilitarian lines. Attire Still Colorful True, trousers had _ triumphed over breeches by the time Sutter founded Sacramento, but even at that time men’s clothes had not yet abandoned all color in deference to the growing fashion for black. Dandies of the day sported frock coats, which gave an almost feminine appearance to the male figure, and dress coats also were extremely waisted. Tall hats reached a new high, waistcoats were ultra elaborate and trousers, well, they were so tight they were uncomfortable. The ‘Dicky’ Dies Some cravats were worn, but they gradually were disappearing in favor of narrow ties over which the shirt collar could be folded. The shirt with an inset breast of fine linen had replaced the “dicky,” or separate shirt front. “And side whiskers, worn with a moustache, were not uncommon. “By 1860, the sack coat and hard round hat made their appearance. Attire became exceptionally sombre, with the fancy waistcoat disappearing to be succeeded by one made of the same material as the coat. eee Trousers were strongly patterned. They Wore Curls, Too In general, men were heavily bearded and if they shaved at all it was only the upper lip. Often the hair was brushed forward to produce curls above the ear. The sack coat, a decade later, had become intrenched firmly and had taken on a degree of informality that made it look not unlike the favored lounge suit of today. The trousers were of a different material and color than the coat and waistcoat, but the outfit approached today’s costume much closer than that of any period up to this time. Straw Hat Introduced By 1880, men’s dress had as-. sumed its modern hue and cut, especially formal attire. Five years later, men still were clinging to the silk topper for ordinary wear, but the straw hat had been introduced and was enjoying exceptional popularity. The bowler hat also was new. Whiskers. no longer were worn, but the moustache, in all manner of forms, universally was worn. During the Gay ’90s, men took to the “Norfolk jacket” like a duck to water and they still sported moustaches. Frequently they wore a collar that was high all the way around, with a rather small tie.

HIGH STYLE OF 1851 shows gay blades with pegged cuffs, long coats, , tapered waists, rolled lapels—all features which resemble 1954’s sharp notes. Hoops Caused Mishaps, Caustically Criticized _Numerous are the tales of accidents which happened to followers of the hoop fashion—one woman told how her frock stood out so far it reached into the fireplace and she nearly burned to death. In Watson’s “Annals” (1856) under the heading “Hoops Again,” this caustic arraignment of the fashion says: “We had hoped that our Jadies would never again.be brought to use such ill-looking, useless and deforming appendages to their dresses. They are, too, so anlnoying and engrossing of place and room in omnibuses, rail cars and in church pews and aisles. Ladies who profess to be Christjans and communicants, ‘~», pledged ‘to renounce the \ 1 pomp and vanities of the wo ld, and not be led thereby’, go up to the sacramental altar, showing before the eyes of all behold-! ers an unseemly vanity!” Then, there was the rise and fall of crinoline—and of course women divided into two camps, for and against. But with the swelling of skirts, crinoline became less “ridiculous” and was worn almost universally. Deep collars were worn and bonnets became more shallow in the crown, worn back from the face. Shawls Were Popular During the Fifties Throughout_the 50's. cashmaroe shawls and inexpensive imitations of them were worn quite generally and in the summer Tunisian shawls, manufactured from silk refuse and usually woven in stripes of two colors, were worn. For the theater, a favorite garment was the AIgerian burnous—a material of silk and goat’s hair mixture, full with flowing lines of an Arabian mantel, with a sort of hood finished with a tassel. In 1859 the beaver hat, with) long ostrich feathers was worn. Fashionable shape of hats for! several years then became—the shallow crown and soft, wide drooping brim. Hair was arranged on top of the head in heavy braids, worn like a coronet, with tirras of velvet and pearls, jet or coral for accent. Ruffled dresses were replaced with panelled skirts, in which two materials, a plain and an embossed or broacaded fabric, were combined.