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Volume 35 (1877) (426 pages)

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130 [September 1, 1877. MINING AND SCIENTIFIC PRESS
fe
iGORRESPONDENCE.
Lake Tahoe, the Loch Lomond of California—Its Character—Its Uses.
{Written for the Perss by J. W. A. WaieHr.}
My work forthe Press in parts of Nevada
and Placer counties has recently taken me to
that traly splendid body of fresh water, known
now as Lake Tahoe, and formerly as Lake Bigler.
Perhaps a sketch may be acceptable to your uumerous readers, giving some features and interests of that *‘ Big Water’—as the Indian name
is,admitted to mean—and its prospects, much
discussed of late, as a source of unfailing supply
of water for at least twoof the chiet cities,
and some of the richest mining regions of California.
Pleasant personal experience has proved te
me that Lake Tahoe may, with truth, be called
the Loch Lomond of California.
Loch Lomond.
April 20th, 1S76—a day of bright sunshine,
varied by a light shower from a few feecy
elonds which floated quietly by—some 80 or
more delegates of the Co-operative Congress of
Great Britain, who, for three days previous, at
Glasgow, Scotland, had worked hard in their
eighth busy and nseful session, enjoyed a steam™
boat excursion on that most noted of the Scottish
lakes, the writer of this sketch accompanying
them, hy kind invitation, as their guest. On
an early morning train we went over that
most picturesque route from Glasgow to Balloch, 20 miles. Thence a cosy, Clyde-built
steamer bore us over the lake to Rowardernan,
at the base of old Ben Lomond—Scotland’s
most celehrated mountain peak—whose summit,
then clad with snow, is reached from this place
by a walk or ride of four miles. We next went
to Inversnaid, the farthest point on the lake,
opposite Balloch, and 2] miles distant. Half
way between Rowardeunan and Inversnaid
we saw distinctly, in that clear atmosphere,
‘*Rob*Roy’s prison,” a rocky cave, of universal
interest to tourists. Near Inversnaid are some
beautiful falls noted as the scene of Wonlsworth’s charming poem—‘“ The Highland Girl”
Our truly social party, having enjoyed to the
full the wild beauty of these scenes with their
pleasing associations in history, poetry, romance,
and the novelty of the occasion itself, shared a
well-spread lunch and after-dinner speeches,
and reached Balloch, on onr return trip, before
nightfall. The scenes and faces of new frieuds,
made familar that day, will remain photohed forever on the memory of at least one
of that party of co-operators.
Lake Tahoe.
July 4th, 1877.—To enjoy a quiet, cool, calm,
restful celebration of our national birthday —
business having bronght me near one of the most
tascinating and picturesque regions of our
«New World’’—atter helping to ‘* celebrate” at
Placerville, in 75, hy a hard but pleasant day's
work, and after sharing with many thousands
the grand hut decidedly heated enjoyment of
the World's Celebration, last vear, in and
aronnd Independence square, Philadelphia, this
thonght was npperniost.
Is there any happier, better way for one to
keep the day which every lover ot liberty
should always cherish, than to take an uneventful sail on the placid waters of Lake Tahoe,
peering into its deep, blue waters; basking in
its bright sunshine; breathing its pure, light,
invigorating air; gazing at a hundred distant,
towering moantain peaks; the whole day long
drinking in, until it should become, as it were,
a part of one’s being, the true grandeur and
beauty of its varied, odd, enchanting, almost
mysterious scenery and surroundings—thus living, for a day at least, in seclusion from the
bnsy world of action, and in converse with the
domains of Nature?
Scon after sunrise, on this Fourth, a stage
load of us, animaied by some such thoughts,
and bent on recreation. left Truckee, the uearest point on the Central Pacific railroad, some
14 miles from either Tahoe City or Hot Springs,
on the shores of the lake. -Rapidly we made
our way up the wild valley of Truckee river to
the former place, where this river, so noted for
its clear, dashing waters and unsurpassed tront
and tront fishing, forms the ouly outlet of that
vast body of fresh water, which nestles among
the Sierra Nevada at a hight of more than 6,000
feet above the level of the Pacitic ocean, By
9 a. a some 15 or 20 passengers boarded the
steamer Gor, Stanford, and, with flags gaily
flying, the tour around the lake and observations began, which are the occasion of the present description and items.
Between 5 and 6 Pp. M. this
Inland Voyage
Around and across the lake was completed by
tonching at or passing the following points in
snecession trom Tahoe City on the north shore
back to the same place, going from west to
east: First, eight miiles ont, MeKiuney’s, on the
western shore; second, 10 miles further, Emerald bay, passing, on the way. Sugar Pine Point
and Ruohicon Point; third, four miles to a point
familliarly called Yank’s, though its name, asa
post-otiice, is Tellac; fourth, four miles again
to Rowland’s, which, with the preceding landing, is on the southern shore of the lake and in
the lower part of Lake valley, a tine grazing
andfhunting region,extending back some 14 miles
and as much as six miles wide in places; fifth,
14 miles to Glenbrook, an important lumber
town, about 16 miles from Carson City—the
eapital of Nevada, our silver State—and conuected with it by stage: thence 22 miles directly
across the lake to Tahoe City again. This round
trip being completed, the httle steamer finished
its day’s work by a run of 12 miles to Hot
Springs, or, as it is sometimes called,
Carnelian Warm Springs,
Where it lies at a good wharf for the night,
ready to start on its daily round at 7 o'clock
uext morning, This affords an opportunity.
for those who wish it, to stop over night or
longer at one of the most noted and, in every
way, most pleasant places of resort on the lake,
where Mr. Wm. B. Campbell. the proprietor,
farnishes the best of quarters, fare, fish, boats
and fishing tackle. The warm baths, cooled
down from the natural temperature of his noted
sulphur springs. which give the nameto his place,
are truly luxurious, refreshing and healthful, and
cannot be had anywhere else around the lake,
thongh there is a soda spring near Tellac. The
natural temperature of one of these springs is
about 120°, another 200° Fahr. On the way to this
most attractive resort, yon pass Observatory
Point, where Mr. Lick once proposed to place
his great telescope: and farther in, to the left,
are Carnelian and Agate Ways, so called from
the small and sometimes very beautiful
Specimens of Chalcedony
Fonnd along the beach in large qnantities,
especially after heavy wind storms. Near Hot
Springs is Boundary Point, over which the line
between Nevada and California passes, marked
here hy ove monument of granite, another
ofiron, Those who can spare a week or more.
should, by all means, divide their time between
this place and the others mentioned, for each
point has its specialties and attractions. Mr.
Bailey. at. Tahoe City: Mr. Clement, at Yanks,
and Mr. Rowland, at his place, do everything
in their power to secure the comfort and enjovment of their guests. <A stage runs between
Hot Springs and Trnckee. The fares and
charges abont the lake are not exorbitant, when
we consider the short season and diificult transportation at an altitude of nearly a mile anda
quarter above the sea.
The Fourth of July excursion in qnestion was
thoronghly enjoyed by all who shared it, coming fully up to expectation, with a few additions.
By mid-day some clouds gathered rather ominonsly and a brisk breeze sprang up, so that when
the steamer left Glenbrook, we experienced, ona
small scale, some of those bewitching ‘‘chopseas,” for which the Straits of Dover and San
Francisco bay are noted at times. The boat
being small, the passengers scon found that
they needed all the ‘‘sea-legs” and sea-digestion
they could command. Some of our number
having but a small stock of either, it was not
long before the aforesaid, ‘‘peering into the
deep, blne waters,” was accompanied by slight
convulsions and npheavals—not, however, so
destructive to life or lasting in their effects as
those ceologieal ones which placed the Sierras
where they are, and made for Lake Tahoeits place
in nature. Under such circumstances, itis distressing to heara man exclaim, “Oh! my conscience !’—as if his conscience hurt him—while
he rnshes to the side of the boat and hangs resignedly over the railing, But, fortunately, on
this lake it is not long before his couscience is
clear again, and he is none the worse for it.
Lakes Tahoe and Lomond Compared.
Vith the scenery of Loch Lomond fresh in
memory, your correspondent could but be impressed at once with many points of similarity
in Lake Tahoe. The general outlines of the
shores, the contours and arrangement of surrounding mountains and several other objects
of interest are wonderfully alike.
There are the same bare granite mountain
sides and peaks, overspread in places with similar patches of snow, Tahoe is, perhaps, the
more heavily timbered nearits shores. Lomond
is 21 miles long; Tahoe 22, though the latter
has some advantage in width, varying from
10 to 15 miles. Tahoe City is the Balloch;
Yank’s or Rowland’s, the Rowardennan; Mount
Tellac, the Ben Lomond; Glenbrook, the Inversnaid; and the Cavern, in Cave rock, is the Rob
Roy’s prison, of Lake Tahoe. These points all
follow in the same order, and correspond very
well in distances, From Yank’s or Rowland’s
you make the ascent of Mount Tellac, some
3,400 teet abovethe lake, and from its dizzy hight
have one of the tinest views on our continent,
comprising 36 lakes in sight.
From Rowardennan yon ascend Ben Lomond,
3,192 teet high, and from its summit have one
ot the finest views in Europe, including many
lakes, or lochs, as our Scotch friends would call
them. From Lake Tahoe, a beautiful stream
flows into Emerald bay, forming a fine waterfall some 250 feet high. which, though not coming in the same order, supplies the place of the
falls near Inversnaid. As the steamer passes
the month of Emerald bay, yon distinctly see
the crystal water of these falls, several miles
away, glistening in the snnlight, the whole effect of the scene being one of entrancing
beanty.
Other points of similarity, are the same trans.
parency ot atmosphere, and the wonderful
clearness of the waters of each lake, the
bottom near the shore and bright objects and fish being distinctly seen at depths
of £0 and 50 feet, or even more, when the water
is perfectly calm. The waters of Tahoe never
become at all muddy, which I -believe is also
true of Lach Lomond.
With bat little ‘etfort of imagination, then,
we can see in Lake Tahoe a counterpart of Scotland's famons lake.
Other Points of Interest.
The depth of Tahoe is very great. Until
recently no deeper sounding had been made
than some 1,600 feet, but Capt. Lapham, commanding our steamer, informed us that Prof. Le
Conte’s deepest sounding gave the immense
depth of 2,700 feet, off Rubicon Point, a bold,
precipitons cliff. It seems strange that, as your
boat passes over snch a vast expanse of water,
you may draw a bucket full from any point,
and the water is perfectly clear and pure an
delicionsly cool. Dr. Blake recently showed,
in a paper read before the San Francisco Academy of Sciences, that its surface temperature is
62°, while at a depth of 580 feet it is about 39°.
The air is delightfully cool most of the 24 hours,
the mercury indicating 76° as nsnally the highest in July. The winters are often severely
cold, but the lake never freezes, thongh the
whole surrounding country is covered with deep
snow. It isa remarkable fact, whatever may
be the cause, that the bodies of persous
drowned there—and qnite a number of such
instances have occurred—have never been found.
This is supposed te account in part for the
superstitious awe with which the neighboring
Indians regard this *‘Big Water.” It is with
the greatest ditiiculty that any of them can be
persnaded to go upon the lake in any kind of
boat. In a few instances. where they have
been indnced to go on board a steamboat. they
have invariably thrown themselves on their
faces and remained in that position till the voyage was ended. The reason they give for this
terror is
<n Indian Tradition.
That many, many moons ago, when their ancestors first came to that lake, many of them tried
to cross on rafts and boats, and never were seeu
or heard of afterwards. To one looking out
upon the usually placid surface of this grand
ke where a little steamer—or, occasioually, a
schooner's white sails—may be seen ouce or
twice a day, there is a mysterious silence, an
impressive stillness and solitude, well calculated
to inspire awe—a feature faithfully expressed in
the accompanying engraving from the fiue painting of Thomas Moran. His view is between
Glenbrook aud Rowland’s, looking south and
west. To the left of the boat, Cave rock is
seen projecting slightly into the lake. The
cavern, 100 feet or more above the lake, is ouly
about 30 feet in depth. Near Glenbrook,
Shakespeare rock gives an excellent profile of
the great dramatist. There are in all four
steamboats on the lake—the Niagara, a fast
little propellor, being used for excursions in calm
weather, and towing a large passenger barge
called the Palace; also, two others employed in
towing rafts of logs from different points to Glenbrook, where four saw mills turn ont between
20,000,000 and 30,000,000 feet of lumber annnally for Carson and Virginia City. A narrowgange railroad, eight miles long, takes the
Iumber to the summit of a ridge, 2,000 feet
above the lake. whence it is conveyed, by a
Y-flume, 21 miles to Carson, 4, OO0feet lower than
said summit. The color of this mass of extremely
pure water of Lake Tahoe is one of its most
striking features. Itvaries from an indigohlue, when very deep, to a light green, where
it is shallow. The line dividing these colors is
marked with wonderful distinctness as yon leave
Rowland’s to go north. You see it from quite
a distance, and pass, all at once, from the green
to the blue, so sudden is the change to the
deepest water.
Animal Life.
The scarcity of water fowl was surprising.
Ouly two or three white gulls were seen on the
eastern shore. Nota duck or wild goose or
swan ap ; not a grebe, or ‘*mud-hen,”
snch as those that abound on Owen's lake
None of the queer worms are found which I
described, in a former paper. as so plentiful in
the suri of the latter lake. At least fonr, possibly six, kinds of fish abound in Lake Tahoe—
the silver trout, black tront, white fish, a
sucker, a chnb, and a minnow, used for bait,
the latter probably differing as much from the
larger kinds as the brook minnow does from
other fish in our streams, A harmless spotted
water-snake is quite plentiful, but no venomous
reptiles have been found in or near the lake.
Mention has already been made of
The Carnelians,
Found ouly along the bay ‘of that name and
Agate bay. A curious opinion prevails with
souie of the old settlers as to the formation of
these very pretty minerals, as there found. It
may he worth recording and thinking of,
whether the theory is correct or not. It is,
that these carnelians are a species of fossil resin
from the pines around the lake, just as the amber, tossed upon the shores of the Baltic, is
known to be of resinous origin, as is proved by
the insects sometimes imbedded within,it. The
idea is, to say the least; ingenions and may deserve further investigation. Our party certainly
found ‘pieces of resin still soit which were
washed up with the hard carnelians, while some
ot the latter, hard as any pebble. had very much
the shape and appearance of fossilized resin, hut
we lcoked in vain for imbedded insects, However this may be in regard to some of these socalled carnelians, there is hardly a donbt that
many, if not all of them, are a very pure form
q{San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento, and the
of the well-known mineral, chalcedony.
Prospective Uses of Tahoe Water.
It remains to discuss briefly the future value
of Lake Tahoe forcertain city and mining interests of California,
Could a feasible plan—say Col. Von Schmidt’s
or any other—be worked out without extravagant fontlay, without more watering of stock
than the lake water itself would do, without
any of those notorious tricks in management
which have given our people in town and country
a mortal dread of moneyed corporatious, and
almost totally destroyed their confideuce in all
enterprises where a large fund is required—so
that this inexhanstible source of some of the
purest water in the world, literally fed by eterual snows, could hereafter supply the wants of
gravel mines of a large part of Placer conuty, it
would indeed be a God-send to millions of the
future population of the Golden State.
Those interested in the fullest prosperity of
California cannot examine the extent of Lake
Tahoe and enjoy the refreshing draughts of its
splendid water, withont wishing this result
could be consummated at the earliest possible
date. Who can doubt, that by the eud of this
century, less than 23 years hence, the first two
cities named will (combined at least) have halfa
million people with their varied wants to supply,
while Sacramento will have growu greatly, and
other places iu proportion. Receut visits to the
mining regions of Placer county have {shown me
that its two great “‘divides” of Forest Hill and
Towa Hill, extending up as high as Michigan
Bluff, Suuny South. and Last Chance, perhaps
even higher, comprise some of the richest
deposits ot gold in the State, to say nothing of
the other valuable minerals, including the
finest asbestos. One can hut be impressed with
the belief, after examining the mining prospects
of this and Nevada county, and other mining
districts of the Sierras, that a thousand years
from this, California will still be furnishing the
precious metals and others in abundanee, if its
people need them in thosedays. But the pressing waut to develop these valuable resoyrves, is
just what the interests of agriculture aud temperance need in our State, viz,
Plenty of Water.
An examination of the many valuable hydranlic mines around the places uamed, also about
Todd’s Valley, Bath, Smith’s Point, Yankee
Jim's, Damascus, and other places lately pros.
pected, proves how lamentable are the effects of
the abseuce of water, snch a dry year as this
has been. To my surprise, I find that many
have not had enough water to work their mines
more than two weeks, others ouly about a
month altogether, the past season, All these
Points are but 3,000 or 4,000 feet above the sea
level, so that the fall from the lake is ample,
when the uecessary tunnel is once made. Why
eannot the interests of our larger cities, and
these rich mining districts, and some of our agricultural interests along the route, be judiciously combined, and so managed as to furnish
all these wants with an inexhaustible supply of
the best of water for all these purposes? Shall
the fear of ‘‘crooked” management pre-eut t
Must we have the humiliation to admit that,
with all our boasted institutions, good laws, the
sagacity, inventive genius, and integrity of our
people, we cannot have such legislation and
control as will work ont any such enterprise for
our people, or our Government, to a successful
and houest result? For the sake of American
honor, business tact, and statesmanship, we
trust not.
Valuable Mines.
While the mass of mines in Placer need this
supply of water, some, it is true, do not. Such
are, the noted Weske mine, along El Dorado
canyon; a new quartz lead, loeated by Mr.
Durning and others, near Yankee Jim’s; and,
last but not least, Bell’s rich and very wonderfal mine of decomposed qnartz, near Bald hill,
four miles northwest of Auburn. The Weske
mine is troubled, just now, with too much
water. Their tunnel having been completed
some 4,000 feet, this mine is remarkable, above
all others, hy having a steam engine iu oue of
its large chambers, 3.800 feet under ground. It
is used to pump ont the surplus water.
The local newspaper reports of the rich yield
of Mr. Bell’s new imine, near Auburn, have by
no means been exaggerated. It was discovered
by him the latter part of February last by svstematic prospecting and tracing, which it is interesting and instructive to hear him explain,
while going over the gronnd. With his pau, he
followed np the wagon rnts and small gullies in
an old road after a winter’s rain, till he found
the outeropping rock from which the exceedingly rich deposits have beenitaken. It began
to pay well from the surface. Early in June he
had sunk his shaft 40 feet, and since March Ist
had taken out somewhere hetween 225.000 and
$35,000, This was done chiefly with pick and
psn. a single panful of the decomposed rock
yielding at times from $1,000 to 32,000. When
1 visited the mine, he was retimbering the shaft
and preparing to go deeper. Descending the
shaft with him. I saw him take out a panful of
rock and clay from the side of the shaft, some
35 feet down, where the ledge is nearly four
feet wide. I saw him wash out this panfal
with no extra care, and wheu he finished, the
result of about 10 miztutes’ work was some $25
or $30 in coarse gold, several lumps of which
were worth 2 or S38 each. Most of this gold is
very pure and of laminated form, the intervals
between the folds being often filled by a subContinued on page 134