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Volume 35 (1877) (426 pages)

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Page: of 426

354 MINING AND SCIENTIFIC PRESS {December 8, 1877.
(GonRESPONDENCE.
It is the desire of the editors of this journal to be liberal toward all correspondents, and therefore statements
and opini are frequently published, on the authority
of the writers, for which we do not assume responsibility.
A Trip to Lake County.
Eprrors Press:—Some time during the month
of August last the writer, in company with a
frisnd, made a flying visit to the sulphur banks
in Lake county, andI send notes of what we
sawon the way. Though late in the day, it
may be of interest to some of the readers of the
Press. The route chosen was via Pope valley,
Batt’s canyon and Long valley in Lake county.
The first seven miles from St. Helena is up an
easy gradc to the summit of the Howell mountain. After crossing a low divide some two
miles from St, Helena, we have the beautiful
little Conn valley spread ont suddenly at our
feet. It is about eight miles long, very narrow
but affords adelightful landscape with its grain
fields, vineyards and pasture lands.
Where the road sweeps around the head of
this valley, and at an elevation of 1,400 feet
above tide water, is the residence of
Mr. Toland,
A nephew of Dr. Toland of your city. Mr.
Toland came here some six years ago an invalid, given up to die, with that dreadful scourge
of civilization, consumption. Being so far above
the fogsand damps of the valley below, and in
an air so clear and bracing, he was enabled to
recuperate and enjoy comparative good health
ever since; and with fair prospect of hving many
years yet among his fellow men of earth. Many
afflicted ones visit this Alpine region every season during the summer months, some camping
several weeks together, and all are benefited,
especially those afflicted with asthma,
At the summit of the Howell mountain,
some 200 or 300 feet above Mr. Toland’s place,
we fouud ourselves on a broad plateau of rolling country, heavily timbered with black oak
and pine. Five thousand two hundred acres of
this land is covered by a grant, which is now
owned by the Napa Bank, except 200 acres containing all the improvements, which was sold
to Mr. Anguin for $9,000.
As much of this land isin the tbermal zone
or warm belt, where frost is seldom known, it
is thought to be a favored locality for fruit raising, and acting upon this idea, the writer has
since purchased a home on this mountain at an
elevation of 1,500 or 1,600 feet above the sea,
overlooking a portion of Napa valley, with St.
Helena as a background just six miles distant.
Pope Valley,
On ths north side of Howell mountain, is probably 15 miles long by from two to five wide.
Tt contains many fine grain farms and sheep
ranges. A narrow-gauge railroad from Napa
City through this valley and Berryessa to Tate
county, is now being agitated, and if put
through, will bs an impetus to trade in this direction.
The Pheenix quicksilver mine is located on
the western rim of the valley. As it was not
in operation at the time, we did not visit it;
they having shut down for repairs.
A Mineral Spring
Has been discovered in the neighborhood of the
mine, which is highly recommended hy a Napa
physician for billious and rheumatic patients
who may bathe in its waters. On learning that
the first effect was to “rile” the stomach, we
decided we were not much sick, so passed on to
the first nice shade and there discussed the contents of a well-filled lunch basket which ths
“eude” wife had thoughtfully prepared for us.
We left the valley by entering a narrow defile
known as
Butts Canyon.
We had a lonely ride of some 10 miles under
a midday sun, whose heat intensified to a tropical degree by the reflection from the steep
mountain sides, which were treeless, rock-ribbed
and desolate in ths extreme. There was nothing
to disturb the profound silénce but the rustling
sound of the lizard, as he slid over the hot
rocks at our approach. The road was a good
one, newly made, with no steep grades, but
rather nirrow for wagons to pass. This will be
the priucipal outlet for the prodnets of eastern
Lake county until a railroad is built. There is
neither mountains to crossnor tolls to pay. The
route is through Butts canyon, Pope valley and
Childs canyon to Rutherford, in Napa valley, a
distauce of about 30 miles from Middletown,
Lake county.
Guenoc
Is situated on the western confines of the valley,
ou the banks of Putah creek. Its prestige is
goue. Middletown, its rival, four miles distant, bas couquered. The last institution to go
down was a ‘whisky mill,” which struggled
hard for an existence, but had at last to succumb to the inevitahle,
. Lower Lake
. Is 12 miles distaut from Guenoc, over a hroken
country, with lictle arable laud until, witbin
thres miles of town, a small valley opens to
view, which contaius several fine farms, The
hill country is blessed with an abundance of
oak and fir timber, and the higher mountains
with immense forests of pine. Many saw mills
are located in these forests, and are doing a
thriving husiness in supplying the local market
with lumher. Lower Lake is situated at the
foot of some gently rolling hills, abont one mile
from the lake, which is not visihle except by
climhing the elevation in the rear of the town.
The town has a good flouring mill, a brewery,
a printing office, and several stores. A fine
brick school house was erected about a year ago.
An incendiary burned it down, but Phenix-like
it rose from its ashes, and now stands an ornament, and the pride of the citizens. The Lower
Lake Bulletin is published here, a wide-awake
journal, devoted to the interests of the people.
Borax Lake.
Nine miles from Lower lake, is about threefourths of amile long by one-half mile wide.
1t was lower this season than for many years,
and the odors from its waters savored strongly
of soap suds. Having heard its detersive
qualities highly spoken of, we thought we would
take a hath in its waters, but one examination
found it contained myriads of living anamalcule. My frieud waded out some distance, but
repented his rashness, for it produced a burning
sensation of the skin for several hours. Extensive works were at one time in operation here,
but the buildings are going to decay or tumhling down; and the scows that were once used
for carrying the mud to the shore when dredged
from tbe bottom of the lake are lying high and
dry on its banks. After procuring some crystals of pure horax from the dried mud at hand,
we proceeded on our journey, and on reaching
the top of the hill near by, we had a fine view of
Clear Lake.
This lake is said to bs 30 miles long and 15
wids atone point. We had an uninterrupted
view over its heautiful clear waters for some 20
miles in the direction of Lakeport the county
seat. Uncle Sam mountain looms up conspicuously on the opposite side of the lake from
where we stood. Atthe foot of the hill and on
the lake shore are the celebrated ‘‘Sulphur
Banks” whicb has proved to be the richest in
quicksilver of any mine on the coast, or perhaps
in the world. The Supt., Mr. Tucker being
absent, we could only learn these facts. In
the month of July 1,056 flasks of quicksilver
were produced, weighing each about 85 pounds.
The force employed was 165 Chinamen and 35
white men. Three years of constant work bas
made but little impression upon this great ‘‘Bonanza” mine, and millions are yet in sight.
The deadly gasses from the works have killed
many acres of timber in the vicinity. In the
mine is a large cauldron of boiling seething
water cased by the sulphurous gasses making
their escape through it.
There isa hotel and store kept here. Two little steamers touched in while we werethere; the
Emma and City of Lakeport, the latter connecting with a, line of stages running from Calistoga
to Pewee lake. The passeugers were allowed
half an hour to visit the mine and works, when
she hlew her whistle and sped on her way to
her destination, Lakeport.
On our return we were amused at the antics of
that rare hird the ‘‘Road Runner,” It was in a
pasture not far from the road chasing grasshoppers. It would straighteu ont itslong tail and
neek and go with the speed of the wind for
his intended victim and seemed unconcerned at
our near presence.
Middletown,
In the Loconoma valley, has several stores, a
good hotel, the Lake House, and several boarding houses and a restaurant; also a good livery
stable and one or two churches. There 3re organized societies of Methodists, Presbyterians
and Seventh-day Adventists. The village is
built upon a dry gravelly plain, but its wells
afford the best and coldest water in this part of
the State. There are inany good farms near
the foothills that provide fair crops of hay and
grain—a good market for which is found among
the many stage companies and pleasure resorts
in the neighborhood. Harbin springs is at the
head of a beautiful little glen two miles from
the town, Anderson’s springs is five miles;
both of them do a thriving business in the
summer season.
Cobb valley, on the top of Cobb mountain, is
1,000 feet or more above the Loconoma. There
is a good hotel kept in this valley at a place
known as Glenbrook, for the benefit of visitors.
We noticed a few apple trees in the valley that
showed the same thrift, and healthy appearance
as those of Mr. Anguin on Howell mountain.
From Middletown to Calistoga is 16 miles.
Our route was over a good toll road through a
long canyon, on the banks of a pearly stream,
fringed with alders, laurels and arborvite: with
a dense undergrowth, among which we observed
the shrub honeysuckle, At the toll gate, which
is at the summit of the divide between the
waters of Lake and Napa counties, we halted
and prepared for the ascent of
Mt. St. Helena.
Our route was hy, the Calistoga silver mine,
which has not heen worked for the last two
years, for reasons hest known to its owuers.
alas, for the town of Silverado; when the mine
shut dowu its glory soon departed, and it is so
effectually dead tbat there is not a soul left to
give its history. We followed a well beaten
trail to the summit which is nearly 5,000 feet
above the sea, aud had spread out before us a
panorama of surpassing beauty. You take in
all of Napa valley at one view, with Mt. Diablo
and the hills beyond an Francisco as a backgrpnd ‘You have a good view of the valleys
rom Petaluma to Healdsburg in Russian River
valley, with a glimpse of ths ocean beyond.
Knight's valley is at your feet, with the Yellow
Jacket and Ida Clayton quicksilver mines at
the base of the mountain, Turning to the
northward and you see Middletown and the adjacent valleys in Lake county. The Great
Westsrn quicksilver mine is on the north side,
right under the shadow of Mt. St. Helena.
urning more to the eastward and you have
a peep into ths northern rim of Pops and Berryessa valleys, with a glimpse at the snow-capped
Sierras. This completes the view that you obtain of six different counties, by simply turning
once around. The mountain has two summits
half a mile apart, with a deep round valley between, with an opening ou the soutbwest side
that drains it. Itis probably an extinct crater,
as the mountain is said by geologists to be of
voleanic origin, In viewing the summit of the
mountain as you pass through Knight's valley,
you have only to stretch the imagination a very
little, to see the outline of a female in a reclining position. And for this reason, ws are informed, the Spanish travelers named it after
Helen, the mother of Constantine. There is a
good hotel at the toll gate to accommodate those
that may wish to pay this grand old sentinel a
visit, and I would advise tourists not to pass it
by. We returned home by way of Calistoga
and down our own beautiful Napa valley much
refreshed and benefited in health from our trip
to Lake county. JoHN Maviry.
Mountain View, Napa Co., Nov. 20th, 1877.
Trees and Rainfall.
Zz
[Written for the Press by SAMUEL PURNELL. .
No
Influence of Trees on Climate.
In considering the influence of trees upon the
climate and rainfall of the Pacitic coast, we first
encounter the impossibility of finding any records of the climate and rainfall of ancient times,
Beyond tbe mere fragments handed down hy
the early Spanish discoverers, the records do
not extend beyond a quarter of a century, a time
too short to be of value in determining a change
of climate.
Looking first at Arizona, we see extensive
ruins of aqueducts and cities, showing the
former presence of a largs agricultural population. That Arizona, and, indeed, tbe whole
Pacific coast, has been peopled by one race or
another from remote antiquity does not admit
of doubt. Some portions, as central Arizona,
were densely settled. ‘Western Arizona is now,
for the most part, a sandy desert, destitute of
trees, with but a few iuches of rain during the
year, and burned by a blazing sun. By what
means, then, did Arizona once sustain her large
population, and why is the country now a desert? Arizona had ones an abundance of rain,
and that within the general historical era and4
the present geological epoch. Now the rains
have ceased, and these are ths reasons why :
The moisture that now falls in scanty summer
showers upon Arizona comes from the same
monsoon that blows up the Mississippi valley ;
it crosses Texas and New Mexico, losing most
of its moisture in passing over high mountains,
and by the time it reaches Arizona its humidity
isso greatly lessened that very little of its remaining moisture can be condensed, and the
surface of Arizona does not offer the necessary
conditions for condensation. When the rain
fell in ancient times the surface of the territory
was covered with forests; the air and earth
were cool, and the moisture of the warm rain
clouds was easily cooled and precipitated. But
the ancient people, through ignorance, through
selfishness, through domestic use, and through
wars, slowly destroyed their forests. The results were most disastrous to them, Soon the
summer rains ceased to descend, the hot and
bare earth increased the dryness of the air.
Only the winter rains then fell. To raise crops
the people were forced to resort to irrigation,
and the remains of great reservoirs and canals
attest their struggle for existence. More trees
were destroyed, and less rain fell in winter,
and soon not enough to fill the reservoirs against
the summer drouths. Then began the extermination of the inhabitants; no frnits or grains
matured, the blazing sun parched the ground,
and the sands of the desert slowly crept over
the once smiling valleys. Most of the psople
starved, a few fled to foreign lands, and the remainder managed to suhsist upon the mountains till exterminated hy the Indians. The
spoliation of the forests, the rohbery of that part
of naturewhich alone can make a country fertile
and inhabitable, was the cause of their destruction, and not the Indians. Nature, just and kind
and heneficent when understood and obeyed,
permits no infractions of her laws, but drives
from their country, or sweeps out of existence
as unworthy of her contiued favors, nations
who commit the unpardouablesin of destroying
her living forests.
The Rainfall Question in California,
California is at present most unfortunately
situated in regard to rain, A large part of the
State is uninhahitable, being nothing less than
a hot, sandy and almost rainless desert. Except a narrow strip of coast, most of southern
Califoruia is an uuinhahitable desert, possessing
indeed a few oases, like Los .Angeles and San
Bernardino, hut in general it is given over to
desolation. The Colorado and Mohave deserts
are as barren, as sandy and as completely solitary wastes as the great desert of Sahara, bein;
inferior to the latter only in extent. Incentra
California, while ws do not find sandy deserts,
we yet see vast tracts of mountain and valley
lands upon which no human being lives, upon
which nothing grows in summer for want of
rain. Itisthe purpose of these papers to explain the causes of the want of summer rains
and the consequent barrenness of most of the
State, and to show how California may secure
rain every month in ths year, become wonderfully prolitie and be inhabited to ths mountain
tops by a well fed and happy people.
A General Sketch of Colusa County.
Epitors Press:—Yonr requsst to he furnished with a few facts concerning Colusa county
for publication, was received too lats for many
interesting details, as unfortunately no notes
were taken by the way. A general view or
such as can be given from memory must therefore suffice:
Ths county embraces a broad field of territory and in proportion to its sxtsnt, more than
ths usual amount of tillable land. A very
large area of summer-fallow has already heen
put in, and everywhers for miles and miles, ag
far as the eye can reach, hoth hills and plains
“stand dressed in living green” of grass or
grain. The promise at present of an abundant
crop could not be better. Ths chief product is
wheat, with a strong re-inforcement of harley.
Colusa county is, perhaps, most celebrated
for its large gram ranches. It is a small farm
here if it contains less than 300 acres. A great
many embrace from 400 to 1,000. A few mors
from 1,000 to 20,000, and ons, at least (Dr.
Glenn’s), is said to cover ahout 60,000 acres,
and believed to be ths largest grain ranch in
the world. For convenience of description, the
nopulated part of ths county may he divided
into
Three Different Belte,
Extending its entire length from north to routh,
The first includes that portion lying along the
Sacramento (and above the town of Colusa),
covering a considerable scope of country on
both the east and west side of the river. Ths
second, and by far the largest body vuf arable
land, is found on the plains and adjacent foothills and valleys on the west; whils the third,
and most westerly division, is confined to a series of beautiful mountain valleys, Bear and Indian being numhered among the larger, coursing also north and south, but supplemented hy
ja) a cultivated little nook or more sequestered vale around the point and beneath ths
shadow of some diverging mountain spur.
The River Belt.
Having crossed the tule from Dunnigan’s in
the upper edge of Yolo county, to Grand Island,
a pleasant evening was passed with Mr. J. D.
Winters, a neighbor years ago, in Carson City.
He is wide-awake to the improvements made
in farming machinery, and has made some important inventions himself; simplifying and
cheapening in particular the construction and
working of certain parts of the grain-lifter,
which may possibly be hereafter more generally
inptaneat From this large ranch, near ths
southern boundary of the county, as far north
as St. John’s and Butte City, two lively villages
not far from its northern limits, the soil along
the borders of the river is a very rich alluvial
deposit, and for the most part under 2 very fine
state of cultivation. Colusa, the county seat,
is situated on the west bank of the Sacramento,
about midway in the belt and is quite a business place, being ths center, not only of the
trade of the rich section of its immediate vicinity, but also for that of much of the most distant settlements in the county. The town of
Sycamore, a few miles below, and Princeton and
Jacinto, some distance above, all have good surroundings and present an appearance of considerable thrift,
The Plains and Foot-hille,
Improvements have advanced very rapidly in
the central"belt, more especially along and near
the line of the Northern railroad. College City,
the most southern town and three miles from
the road, derives its name from a flourishing
institution established here (usually numbering
100 pupils and upwards), and is supported
mainly by residents for educational privilsges.
Williams, ths present terminus, has quite a
number of large, substantial buildings, among
the numher a spacious hall fast approaching
completion. It gives evidence of much thrift
and promise for permanence. Arbuckle is the
only town of any note south of the terminus
immediately on ths road, but ou the projected
line north, several rapidly growing villages are
found. Occident, the smallest, comes first.
Willows, the next in order, is the largest along
the whole line, with a good country surrounding it. Germantown, a few miles above, is not
far behind its neighbor in the race, aud is settled up chiefly, as indicated by the name, from
Germany. /
Orland, in the upper part of the county,
covers a good deal of ground, the buildings
heing usually small and mostly wooden, but
hoasts a large grist mill, now nearly ready for
running.
The Mountain Valleys.
The principal villages of ths western belt are
(Continued on page 352.)