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Collection: Books and Periodicals > Mining & Scientific Press

Volume 35 (1877) (426 pages)

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354 MINING AND SCIENTIFIC PRESS {December 8, 1877. (GonRESPONDENCE. It is the desire of the editors of this journal to be liberal toward all correspondents, and therefore statements and opini are frequently published, on the authority of the writers, for which we do not assume responsibility. A Trip to Lake County. Eprrors Press:—Some time during the month of August last the writer, in company with a frisnd, made a flying visit to the sulphur banks in Lake county, andI send notes of what we sawon the way. Though late in the day, it may be of interest to some of the readers of the Press. The route chosen was via Pope valley, Batt’s canyon and Long valley in Lake county. The first seven miles from St. Helena is up an easy gradc to the summit of the Howell mountain. After crossing a low divide some two miles from St, Helena, we have the beautiful little Conn valley spread ont suddenly at our feet. It is about eight miles long, very narrow but affords adelightful landscape with its grain fields, vineyards and pasture lands. Where the road sweeps around the head of this valley, and at an elevation of 1,400 feet above tide water, is the residence of Mr. Toland, A nephew of Dr. Toland of your city. Mr. Toland came here some six years ago an invalid, given up to die, with that dreadful scourge of civilization, consumption. Being so far above the fogsand damps of the valley below, and in an air so clear and bracing, he was enabled to recuperate and enjoy comparative good health ever since; and with fair prospect of hving many years yet among his fellow men of earth. Many afflicted ones visit this Alpine region every season during the summer months, some camping several weeks together, and all are benefited, especially those afflicted with asthma, At the summit of the Howell mountain, some 200 or 300 feet above Mr. Toland’s place, we fouud ourselves on a broad plateau of rolling country, heavily timbered with black oak and pine. Five thousand two hundred acres of this land is covered by a grant, which is now owned by the Napa Bank, except 200 acres containing all the improvements, which was sold to Mr. Anguin for $9,000. As much of this land isin the tbermal zone or warm belt, where frost is seldom known, it is thought to be a favored locality for fruit raising, and acting upon this idea, the writer has since purchased a home on this mountain at an elevation of 1,500 or 1,600 feet above the sea, overlooking a portion of Napa valley, with St. Helena as a background just six miles distant. Pope Valley, On ths north side of Howell mountain, is probably 15 miles long by from two to five wide. Tt contains many fine grain farms and sheep ranges. A narrow-gauge railroad from Napa City through this valley and Berryessa to Tate county, is now being agitated, and if put through, will bs an impetus to trade in this direction. The Pheenix quicksilver mine is located on the western rim of the valley. As it was not in operation at the time, we did not visit it; they having shut down for repairs. A Mineral Spring Has been discovered in the neighborhood of the mine, which is highly recommended hy a Napa physician for billious and rheumatic patients who may bathe in its waters. On learning that the first effect was to “rile” the stomach, we decided we were not much sick, so passed on to the first nice shade and there discussed the contents of a well-filled lunch basket which ths “eude” wife had thoughtfully prepared for us. We left the valley by entering a narrow defile known as Butts Canyon. We had a lonely ride of some 10 miles under a midday sun, whose heat intensified to a tropical degree by the reflection from the steep mountain sides, which were treeless, rock-ribbed and desolate in ths extreme. There was nothing to disturb the profound silénce but the rustling sound of the lizard, as he slid over the hot rocks at our approach. The road was a good one, newly made, with no steep grades, but rather nirrow for wagons to pass. This will be the priucipal outlet for the prodnets of eastern Lake county until a railroad is built. There is neither mountains to crossnor tolls to pay. The route is through Butts canyon, Pope valley and Childs canyon to Rutherford, in Napa valley, a distauce of about 30 miles from Middletown, Lake county. Guenoc Is situated on the western confines of the valley, ou the banks of Putah creek. Its prestige is goue. Middletown, its rival, four miles distant, bas couquered. The last institution to go down was a ‘whisky mill,” which struggled hard for an existence, but had at last to succumb to the inevitahle, . Lower Lake . Is 12 miles distaut from Guenoc, over a hroken country, with lictle arable laud until, witbin thres miles of town, a small valley opens to view, which contaius several fine farms, The hill country is blessed with an abundance of oak and fir timber, and the higher mountains with immense forests of pine. Many saw mills are located in these forests, and are doing a thriving husiness in supplying the local market with lumher. Lower Lake is situated at the foot of some gently rolling hills, abont one mile from the lake, which is not visihle except by climhing the elevation in the rear of the town. The town has a good flouring mill, a brewery, a printing office, and several stores. A fine brick school house was erected about a year ago. An incendiary burned it down, but Phenix-like it rose from its ashes, and now stands an ornament, and the pride of the citizens. The Lower Lake Bulletin is published here, a wide-awake journal, devoted to the interests of the people. Borax Lake. Nine miles from Lower lake, is about threefourths of amile long by one-half mile wide. 1t was lower this season than for many years, and the odors from its waters savored strongly of soap suds. Having heard its detersive qualities highly spoken of, we thought we would take a hath in its waters, but one examination found it contained myriads of living anamalcule. My frieud waded out some distance, but repented his rashness, for it produced a burning sensation of the skin for several hours. Extensive works were at one time in operation here, but the buildings are going to decay or tumhling down; and the scows that were once used for carrying the mud to the shore when dredged from tbe bottom of the lake are lying high and dry on its banks. After procuring some crystals of pure horax from the dried mud at hand, we proceeded on our journey, and on reaching the top of the hill near by, we had a fine view of Clear Lake. This lake is said to bs 30 miles long and 15 wids atone point. We had an uninterrupted view over its heautiful clear waters for some 20 miles in the direction of Lakeport the county seat. Uncle Sam mountain looms up conspicuously on the opposite side of the lake from where we stood. Atthe foot of the hill and on the lake shore are the celebrated ‘‘Sulphur Banks” whicb has proved to be the richest in quicksilver of any mine on the coast, or perhaps in the world. The Supt., Mr. Tucker being absent, we could only learn these facts. In the month of July 1,056 flasks of quicksilver were produced, weighing each about 85 pounds. The force employed was 165 Chinamen and 35 white men. Three years of constant work bas made but little impression upon this great ‘‘Bonanza” mine, and millions are yet in sight. The deadly gasses from the works have killed many acres of timber in the vicinity. In the mine is a large cauldron of boiling seething water cased by the sulphurous gasses making their escape through it. There isa hotel and store kept here. Two little steamers touched in while we werethere; the Emma and City of Lakeport, the latter connecting with a, line of stages running from Calistoga to Pewee lake. The passeugers were allowed half an hour to visit the mine and works, when she hlew her whistle and sped on her way to her destination, Lakeport. On our return we were amused at the antics of that rare hird the ‘‘Road Runner,” It was in a pasture not far from the road chasing grasshoppers. It would straighteu ont itslong tail and neek and go with the speed of the wind for his intended victim and seemed unconcerned at our near presence. Middletown, In the Loconoma valley, has several stores, a good hotel, the Lake House, and several boarding houses and a restaurant; also a good livery stable and one or two churches. There 3re organized societies of Methodists, Presbyterians and Seventh-day Adventists. The village is built upon a dry gravelly plain, but its wells afford the best and coldest water in this part of the State. There are inany good farms near the foothills that provide fair crops of hay and grain—a good market for which is found among the many stage companies and pleasure resorts in the neighborhood. Harbin springs is at the head of a beautiful little glen two miles from the town, Anderson’s springs is five miles; both of them do a thriving business in the summer season. Cobb valley, on the top of Cobb mountain, is 1,000 feet or more above the Loconoma. There is a good hotel kept in this valley at a place known as Glenbrook, for the benefit of visitors. We noticed a few apple trees in the valley that showed the same thrift, and healthy appearance as those of Mr. Anguin on Howell mountain. From Middletown to Calistoga is 16 miles. Our route was over a good toll road through a long canyon, on the banks of a pearly stream, fringed with alders, laurels and arborvite: with a dense undergrowth, among which we observed the shrub honeysuckle, At the toll gate, which is at the summit of the divide between the waters of Lake and Napa counties, we halted and prepared for the ascent of Mt. St. Helena. Our route was hy, the Calistoga silver mine, which has not heen worked for the last two years, for reasons hest known to its owuers. alas, for the town of Silverado; when the mine shut dowu its glory soon departed, and it is so effectually dead tbat there is not a soul left to give its history. We followed a well beaten trail to the summit which is nearly 5,000 feet above the sea, aud had spread out before us a
panorama of surpassing beauty. You take in all of Napa valley at one view, with Mt. Diablo and the hills beyond an Francisco as a backgrpnd ‘You have a good view of the valleys rom Petaluma to Healdsburg in Russian River valley, with a glimpse of ths ocean beyond. Knight's valley is at your feet, with the Yellow Jacket and Ida Clayton quicksilver mines at the base of the mountain, Turning to the northward and you see Middletown and the adjacent valleys in Lake county. The Great Westsrn quicksilver mine is on the north side, right under the shadow of Mt. St. Helena. urning more to the eastward and you have a peep into ths northern rim of Pops and Berryessa valleys, with a glimpse at the snow-capped Sierras. This completes the view that you obtain of six different counties, by simply turning once around. The mountain has two summits half a mile apart, with a deep round valley between, with an opening ou the soutbwest side that drains it. Itis probably an extinct crater, as the mountain is said by geologists to be of voleanic origin, In viewing the summit of the mountain as you pass through Knight's valley, you have only to stretch the imagination a very little, to see the outline of a female in a reclining position. And for this reason, ws are informed, the Spanish travelers named it after Helen, the mother of Constantine. There is a good hotel at the toll gate to accommodate those that may wish to pay this grand old sentinel a visit, and I would advise tourists not to pass it by. We returned home by way of Calistoga and down our own beautiful Napa valley much refreshed and benefited in health from our trip to Lake county. JoHN Maviry. Mountain View, Napa Co., Nov. 20th, 1877. Trees and Rainfall. Zz [Written for the Press by SAMUEL PURNELL. . No Influence of Trees on Climate. In considering the influence of trees upon the climate and rainfall of the Pacitic coast, we first encounter the impossibility of finding any records of the climate and rainfall of ancient times, Beyond tbe mere fragments handed down hy the early Spanish discoverers, the records do not extend beyond a quarter of a century, a time too short to be of value in determining a change of climate. Looking first at Arizona, we see extensive ruins of aqueducts and cities, showing the former presence of a largs agricultural population. That Arizona, and, indeed, tbe whole Pacific coast, has been peopled by one race or another from remote antiquity does not admit of doubt. Some portions, as central Arizona, were densely settled. ‘Western Arizona is now, for the most part, a sandy desert, destitute of trees, with but a few iuches of rain during the year, and burned by a blazing sun. By what means, then, did Arizona once sustain her large population, and why is the country now a desert? Arizona had ones an abundance of rain, and that within the general historical era and4 the present geological epoch. Now the rains have ceased, and these are ths reasons why : The moisture that now falls in scanty summer showers upon Arizona comes from the same monsoon that blows up the Mississippi valley ; it crosses Texas and New Mexico, losing most of its moisture in passing over high mountains, and by the time it reaches Arizona its humidity isso greatly lessened that very little of its remaining moisture can be condensed, and the surface of Arizona does not offer the necessary conditions for condensation. When the rain fell in ancient times the surface of the territory was covered with forests; the air and earth were cool, and the moisture of the warm rain clouds was easily cooled and precipitated. But the ancient people, through ignorance, through selfishness, through domestic use, and through wars, slowly destroyed their forests. The results were most disastrous to them, Soon the summer rains ceased to descend, the hot and bare earth increased the dryness of the air. Only the winter rains then fell. To raise crops the people were forced to resort to irrigation, and the remains of great reservoirs and canals attest their struggle for existence. More trees were destroyed, and less rain fell in winter, and soon not enough to fill the reservoirs against the summer drouths. Then began the extermination of the inhabitants; no frnits or grains matured, the blazing sun parched the ground, and the sands of the desert slowly crept over the once smiling valleys. Most of the psople starved, a few fled to foreign lands, and the remainder managed to suhsist upon the mountains till exterminated hy the Indians. The spoliation of the forests, the rohbery of that part of naturewhich alone can make a country fertile and inhabitable, was the cause of their destruction, and not the Indians. Nature, just and kind and heneficent when understood and obeyed, permits no infractions of her laws, but drives from their country, or sweeps out of existence as unworthy of her contiued favors, nations who commit the unpardouablesin of destroying her living forests. The Rainfall Question in California, California is at present most unfortunately situated in regard to rain, A large part of the State is uninhahitable, being nothing less than a hot, sandy and almost rainless desert. Except a narrow strip of coast, most of southern Califoruia is an uuinhahitable desert, possessing indeed a few oases, like Los .Angeles and San Bernardino, hut in general it is given over to desolation. The Colorado and Mohave deserts are as barren, as sandy and as completely solitary wastes as the great desert of Sahara, bein; inferior to the latter only in extent. Incentra California, while ws do not find sandy deserts, we yet see vast tracts of mountain and valley lands upon which no human being lives, upon which nothing grows in summer for want of rain. Itisthe purpose of these papers to explain the causes of the want of summer rains and the consequent barrenness of most of the State, and to show how California may secure rain every month in ths year, become wonderfully prolitie and be inhabited to ths mountain tops by a well fed and happy people. A General Sketch of Colusa County. Epitors Press:—Yonr requsst to he furnished with a few facts concerning Colusa county for publication, was received too lats for many interesting details, as unfortunately no notes were taken by the way. A general view or such as can be given from memory must therefore suffice: Ths county embraces a broad field of territory and in proportion to its sxtsnt, more than ths usual amount of tillable land. A very large area of summer-fallow has already heen put in, and everywhers for miles and miles, ag far as the eye can reach, hoth hills and plains “stand dressed in living green” of grass or grain. The promise at present of an abundant crop could not be better. Ths chief product is wheat, with a strong re-inforcement of harley. Colusa county is, perhaps, most celebrated for its large gram ranches. It is a small farm here if it contains less than 300 acres. A great many embrace from 400 to 1,000. A few mors from 1,000 to 20,000, and ons, at least (Dr. Glenn’s), is said to cover ahout 60,000 acres, and believed to be ths largest grain ranch in the world. For convenience of description, the nopulated part of ths county may he divided into Three Different Belte, Extending its entire length from north to routh, The first includes that portion lying along the Sacramento (and above the town of Colusa), covering a considerable scope of country on both the east and west side of the river. Ths second, and by far the largest body vuf arable land, is found on the plains and adjacent foothills and valleys on the west; whils the third, and most westerly division, is confined to a series of beautiful mountain valleys, Bear and Indian being numhered among the larger, coursing also north and south, but supplemented hy ja) a cultivated little nook or more sequestered vale around the point and beneath ths shadow of some diverging mountain spur. The River Belt. Having crossed the tule from Dunnigan’s in the upper edge of Yolo county, to Grand Island, a pleasant evening was passed with Mr. J. D. Winters, a neighbor years ago, in Carson City. He is wide-awake to the improvements made in farming machinery, and has made some important inventions himself; simplifying and cheapening in particular the construction and working of certain parts of the grain-lifter, which may possibly be hereafter more generally inptaneat From this large ranch, near ths southern boundary of the county, as far north as St. John’s and Butte City, two lively villages not far from its northern limits, the soil along the borders of the river is a very rich alluvial deposit, and for the most part under 2 very fine state of cultivation. Colusa, the county seat, is situated on the west bank of the Sacramento, about midway in the belt and is quite a business place, being ths center, not only of the trade of the rich section of its immediate vicinity, but also for that of much of the most distant settlements in the county. The town of Sycamore, a few miles below, and Princeton and Jacinto, some distance above, all have good surroundings and present an appearance of considerable thrift, The Plains and Foot-hille, Improvements have advanced very rapidly in the central"belt, more especially along and near the line of the Northern railroad. College City, the most southern town and three miles from the road, derives its name from a flourishing institution established here (usually numbering 100 pupils and upwards), and is supported mainly by residents for educational privilsges. Williams, ths present terminus, has quite a number of large, substantial buildings, among the numher a spacious hall fast approaching completion. It gives evidence of much thrift and promise for permanence. Arbuckle is the only town of any note south of the terminus immediately on ths road, but ou the projected line north, several rapidly growing villages are found. Occident, the smallest, comes first. Willows, the next in order, is the largest along the whole line, with a good country surrounding it. Germantown, a few miles above, is not far behind its neighbor in the race, aud is settled up chiefly, as indicated by the name, from Germany. / Orland, in the upper part of the county, covers a good deal of ground, the buildings heing usually small and mostly wooden, but hoasts a large grist mill, now nearly ready for running. The Mountain Valleys. The principal villages of ths western belt are (Continued on page 352.)