Volume 042-2 - April 1988 (8 pages)

FROM SUTTER‘S FORT TO THE SINK OF MARIE’S RIVER by William H. Winter Having spent some months in exploring the country, and obtained a tolerably satisfactory knowledge, of the greater part of Northern or Upper California, either from personal observation, or by careful inquiries, from such persons as had made themselves. acquainted with the various portions of the country, we determined on leaving for the United States. After much trouble and excertion in raising a small company of fifteen persons; on the 12th of May, 1845, we left Capt. Sutter’s, on our homeward bound trip. We traveled up the Sacramento, on the East side, forty miles; and then traveled up Bear Creek our course being about East. Crossing the east side of the Sacramento Valley, a distance of about twenty miles, we came to the spurs of the California Mountains. We continued to travel up through these hills, following the general course of the stream, until we came to its source; which is in a large marsh, greatly elevated above the Sacramento Valley. At this marsh we remained one day, in order to find a place where we could cross Juba River, which was a mile and a half distant, a stream of considerable size, very rapid, full of falls and canions, and was at this time quite high, from the melting of the snow on the mountains. It was only in a few places, where the hills were sufficiently gradual, to allow us to descend to the water; and these places were frequently between perpendicular falls, which were so near, and the velocity of the water was so great, as to render the crossing very dangerous, if not absolutely impossible. This was the character of the first place where we struck the River, which was on the trail of a small emigrating company, that came into California the previous summer. We had been told, by a gentleman whom we had met a few days before, returning from the mountains, where he had gone to get some wagons and other property, which he had been compelled to leave, in the Fall, on account of the lateness of the season, and the fear of being blocked up by the coming snows, that it would be impossible for us to cross the stream, and that it would be best for us to return’ We, however, discovered a place, where we ascended the mountain, immediately above us; and having, with much difficulty, on account of the steepness of the ascent, gained the summit; we followed the ridge our progress being somewhat impeded by the snow for about eight miles; and descended into the small bottom of the River. Traveling up the bottom about two miles, we came to a high, rocky spur, making into the water, around which we were at first unable to pass. But after searching and examining, for a long time, we at length found a place, where, by cutting away the brush for a considerable distance with our hatchets, and plunging through the mire and snow, we could pass around the spur. Having accomplished this, and traveled up the narrow bottom about two miles further, we again came to where the mountain neared the river. The bottom land was miry and covered with brush, and the snow was about four feet deep. Our loose animals, which were in front, were crowded into the stream by the pack animals before we were aware of the situation. We succeeded, with difficulty, in stopping the animals which were packed with our provisions, &c., and stripping off our baggage and saddles, in the snow, we drove in the rest of the animals. They all succeeded in gaining a small island, near the opposite shore, just large enough to contain them; where they stayed the whole night in the snow, without anything to eat. Having kindled a large fire, and arranged our camp, our next object was, to make a way, by which we could cross ourselves and the baggage. For this purpose, we felled a tree, which not being long enough to reach, was carried down the stream; we then selected a large tall Fir, which we cut about half off, and left it until the next morning, when we finished cutting it down. In falling, it broke in two, about fifteen feet from the opposite shore, and the top was carried away; the main trunk, however, lodged against the upper part of a large rock, and the force of the current supported it above. From the broken end of this tree, we were able to throw poles across to the opposite shore, and in this manner we constructed a way, upon which we carried across our baggage. Having repacked our horses, we continued up Juba River, traveling about an East course; sometimes in the narrow bottom of the stream, and sometimes upon the sides and summits of the ridges. The snow still continued deep, and covered both the bottoms and the mountains, in all parts, around us; but it was very compact, and in the morning would generally bear our animals, We traveled up the North side about eleven miles, and came to the forks of the stream; the North branch of which we crossed with difficulty, the current being very strong, and the channel full of large rocks, upon which some of our pack animals fell; and were carried down the stream; and we were compelled, to leap into the water, just melted from the snow, and assist them to the shore. Having crossed, we came into a prairie, about one mile in width, and three or four in length, extending from the base of the main ridge of the mountain; which now lay immediately before us.’ We ascended this ridge without much labor, although it was composed entirely of granite, which lay in large detached fragments, over the whole surface; and gained the summit. This, on either side of the narrow gap through which we passed, was very sharp, and perfectly bald and barren’ Immediately upon reaching the summit, the whole Eastern side of the mountain burst upon the view; and a sudden thrill of joy, awakened in every bosom, and flashed in every eye; for the snow which had so much impeded, and made so disagreeable and dangerous, the ascent on the West, had melted almost entirely 13

FROM SUTTER‘S FORT TO THE SINK OF MARIE’S RIVER by William H. Winter Having spent some months in exploring the country, and obtained a tolerably satisfactory knowledge, of the greater part of Northern or Upper California, either from personal observation, or by careful inquiries, from such persons as had made themselves. acquainted with the various portions of the country, we determined on leaving for the United States. After much trouble and excertion in raising a small company of fifteen persons; on the 12th of May, 1845, we left Capt. Sutter’s, on our homeward bound trip. We traveled up the Sacramento, on the East side, forty miles; and then traveled up Bear Creek our course being about East. Crossing the east side of the Sacramento Valley, a distance of about twenty miles, we came to the spurs of the California Mountains. We continued to travel up through these hills, following the general course of the stream, until we came to its source; which is in a large marsh, greatly elevated above the Sacramento Valley. At this marsh we remained one day, in order to find a place where we could cross Juba River, which was a mile and a half distant, a stream of considerable size, very rapid, full of falls and canions, and was at this time quite high, from the melting of the snow on the mountains. It was only in a few places, where the hills were sufficiently gradual, to allow us to descend to the water; and these places were frequently between perpendicular falls, which were so near, and the velocity of the water was so great, as to render the crossing very dangerous, if not absolutely impossible. This was the character of the first place where we struck the River, which was on the trail of a small emigrating company, that came into California the previous summer. We had been told, by a gentleman whom we had met a few days before, returning from the mountains, where he had gone to get some wagons and other property, which he had been compelled to leave, in the Fall, on account of the lateness of the season, and the fear of being blocked up by the coming snows, that it would be impossible for us to cross the stream, and that it would be best for us to return’ We, however, discovered a place, where we ascended the mountain, immediately above us; and having, with much difficulty, on account of the steepness of the ascent, gained the summit; we followed the ridge our progress being somewhat impeded by the snow for about eight miles; and descended into the small bottom of the River. Traveling up the bottom about two miles, we came to a high, rocky spur, making into the water, around which we were at first unable to pass. But after searching and examining, for a long time, we at length found a place, where, by cutting away the brush for a considerable distance with our hatchets, and plunging through the mire and snow, we could pass around the spur. Having accomplished this, and traveled up the narrow bottom about two miles further, we again came to where the mountain neared the

river. The bottom land was miry and covered with brush, and the snow was about four feet deep. Our loose animals, which were in front, were crowded into the stream by the pack animals before we were aware of the situation. We succeeded, with difficulty, in stopping the animals which were packed with our provisions, &c., and stripping off our baggage and saddles, in the snow, we drove in the rest of the animals. They all succeeded in gaining a small island, near the opposite shore, just large enough to contain them; where they stayed the whole night in the snow, without anything to eat. Having kindled a large fire, and arranged our camp, our next object was, to make a way, by which we could cross ourselves and the baggage. For this purpose, we felled a tree, which not being long enough to reach, was carried down the stream; we then selected a large tall Fir, which we cut about half off, and left it until the next morning, when we finished cutting it down. In falling, it broke in two, about fifteen feet from the opposite shore, and the top was carried away; the main trunk, however, lodged against the upper part of a large rock, and the force of the current supported it above. From the broken end of this tree, we were able to throw poles across to the opposite shore, and in this manner we constructed a way, upon which we carried across our baggage. Having repacked our horses, we continued up Juba River, traveling about an East course; sometimes in the narrow bottom of the stream, and sometimes upon the sides and summits of the ridges. The snow still continued deep, and covered both the bottoms and the mountains, in all parts, around us; but it was very compact, and in the morning would generally bear our animals, We traveled up the North side about eleven miles, and came to the forks of the stream; the North branch of which we crossed with difficulty, the current being very strong, and the channel full of large rocks, upon which some of our pack animals fell; and were carried down the stream; and we were compelled, to leap into the water, just melted from the snow, and assist them to the shore. Having crossed, we came into a prairie, about one mile in width, and three or four in length, extending from the base of the main ridge of the mountain; which now lay immediately before us.’ We ascended this ridge without much labor, although it was composed entirely of granite, which lay in large detached fragments, over the whole surface; and gained the summit. This, on either side of the narrow gap through which we passed, was very sharp, and perfectly bald and barren’ Immediately upon reaching the summit, the whole Eastern side of the mountain burst upon the view; and a sudden thrill of joy, awakened in every bosom, and flashed in every eye; for the snow which had so much impeded, and made so disagreeable and dangerous, the ascent on the West, had melted almost entirely 13