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Volume 045-2 & 3 - April & July 1991 (10 pages)

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Page: of 10

The Emigrant Trail Through
Nevada City, California
by Charles K. Graydon Nevada City, California
Foreword
This booklet is about the first emigrant
trails and roads that led into Nevada
City, California and about the
fabulous growth that took place in this
quaint and beautiful little Gold Country town from August 1849 through
1850. While other towns nearby soon
sprang up, during that short period
Nevada City could truly be called
“‘Queen City of the Northern Mines:’
In 1979 I undertook to locate remaining evidence of the Truckee Route
of the California Emigrant Trail as it
crossed the Sierra Nevada beginning at
Verdi, Nevada near the California
border. The result was publication of
a book entitled ‘‘Trail of the First
Wagons Over The Sierra Nevada’
Toward the end of my research, I came
across Franklin Street’s 1850 emigrant
trail guide which, among other interesting facts, indicates an emigrant
trail going directly through Nevada City (see Annex II herein).
It had not occurred to me until then
that my own home town had its branch
of the emigrant trail that could be
researched within minutes of my own
front door. Except for a few historians
and local residents, very few other people know that this historic segment of
trail existed. Therefore I have attempted to put down a record of its history,
its location and the events leading up to
its opening.
Although this booklet is primarily
about the routes to Nevada City, in
order to complete the picture, it is
necessary to get a ‘‘running start’”’ by
including something about the long
trail all emigrants took who came to
California by way of the Truckee route
beginning at the Missouri River.
Charles K. Graydon
Nevada City, California
10
Beginnings of the Great
Migration to California —
1844 1848
It was in 1844, a year after the Emigrant Trail
to Oregon had been opened that the first trail
for wagons over the Sierra Nevada into California was pioneered by a group of emigrants called
the Stevens-Townsend-Murphy Party. With few
changes their route was followed by thousands
of emigrants thereafter.
After following the Oregon Trail across
Nebraska and Wyoming as far as Fort Hall,
Idaho the first trail to California turned southwest into eastern Nevada and west down the
Humboldt (then Mary's) River which ended in
a sink seventy miles east of present Reno. It then
crossed the desert and soon met the Truckee
River which it followed west as far as present
Truckee.
The trail originally crossed the Sierra Summit at Donner Pass, but in 1846, two additional
passes less than two miles to the south were
opened. The three trails converged at Summit
Valley near Soda Springs then generally followed the South Yuba River and the high ridges
to the south of it into Bear Valley by way of
Emigrant Gap. Here it went down the Bear
River drainage through present Chicago Park,
and finally to Johnson’s Rancho, near present
Wheatland in the Sacramento Valley.
This then became the historic Truckee route
of the California Emigrant Trail. It is sometimes
called the Donner Trail. The diaries and journals of the emigrants themselves provided the
best information on the terrible hardships and
infrequent joys of the long overland journey.
They comment particularly on the pleasures of
the initial part of the journey when the prairie
country of Nebraska and Wyoming was green
with new grass and wild flowers bloomed plentifully. The ladies and children often picked
flowers and picnicked while dancing, fiddling
and story-telling occurred around the evening
camp fires.
Game was plentiful in those early years.
However, the diaries also tel! of the horror and
sadness caused by the deaths of hundreds from
the cholera and malaria epidemics then rampant
in the Missouri Valley.
The worst hardships encountered came toward
the end of the long journey. The first of these
was the crossing of the Nevada desert. Some
parties had so few animals left that they had to
abandon their wagons. In some cases wagons
were cut in half to make carts to be pulled by
one ox or mule. Others used their remaining
beasts as pack animals or slung packs on their
own backs and continued on foot with what
meager possessions they could carry. Even
today the remains of wagons, household goods
and equipment can be seen in this area as they
are alternately buried and uncovered by the shifting desert sands.
The greatest obstacle of all was the awesome
summit of the Sierra Nevada. The famous
Donner Pass, first crossed in 1844, was a mass
of granite.
Although nine hundred feet higher than
Donner Pass, the two passes just south of it, between Donner Peak and Mt. Judah (Coldstream
Pass) and between Mt. Judah and Mt. Lincotn
(Rollar Pass) were considered easier to surmount. However, these were only a little less
formidable.
With few exceptions the wagon parties
reached the west side of the mountains hungry
and exhausted with little food and few supplies.
Their remaining faithful oxen and mules who
had barely survived their terrible ordeal were
in worse shape than their masters; thousands had
died from hunger, thirst and exhaustion.
In this condition the emigrants were ill
prepared to meet a final unexpected challenge.
The western slopes of the Sierra are an endless
series of high narrow ridges and steep boulder
strewn canyons extending as far as present
Chicago Park and Nevada City, a distance of
fifty trail miles.
In crossing over Emigrant Gap to Bear Valley
at the head waters of the Bear River, the
emigrants made a plunge of one half mile down
a 30-40% slope. Here they used every means
possible to brace the wagons downhill—dragging
logs, snubbing around trees, locking rear wheels
or simply holding back the wagons with
manpower.
After fifteen miles of travel equally as bad,
the emigrant parties reached the awesome crossing of Steephollow Creek five miles east of
Chicago Park. Steephollow was the last major
obstacle on the Truckee Route and from here
it was an easy journey through the foothills to
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