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Topographical Reports of Lt. George H. Derby (Volume 11)(1932) (5 pages)

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Page: of 5

118 CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SOCIETY QUARTERLY
part a barren plain, with little vegetation or water. ‘It is from thirty to fortyfive miles in extent, being bounded on the west by the coast range of mountains.
There are no streams emptying into the Sacramento from the west, south of
latitude 3914° north, with the exception of “Puta” and Cache creeks. The latter
is the outlet of Clear Lake, flowing from its southeast extremity, and losing
itself in the “Tulé” swamp which borders the western bank of the Sacramento
about six miles southwest of the mouth of the Feather river. “Puta” creek
rises in the coast range, and, flowing southeast, empties into the Sacramento
about fifteen miles below the mouth of the American river. The whole country
between the creeks is liable to overflow, and is very dangerous to attempt
travelling after a heavy rain. The “Tulé” swamp, upon the western bank of the
Sacramento, extending to the vicinity of “Butte” creek, and occurring occasionally above, is from three to six miles in width, and is impassable for six
months out of the year. A corduroy road may, however, be made over it, which
has been used in some instances with success at all seasons.” .
There is a short road of this kind in the rear of Sutter’s, which I believe has
proved entirely successful.
We reached Sacramento City on the 2d of November, and encamped upon
the outskirts during a tremendous storm of wind and rain, which proved to be
the bona fide commencement of the rainy season. Having paid and discharged
my party with the exception of a teamster and Mr. John Day, whom I retained
as assistant, and finding it impossible to sell my animals and wagon to advantage, in consequence of the identical reason that prevented my purchasing (i.e.
the expedition for the relief of the suffering emigrants which had just preceded
my return, and whose mules and other property were being disposed of at
auction), I concluded to take them all to “Pueblo de San Jose,” where I had
reason to believe they would meet with a ready sale. I accordingly crossed the
Sacramento on the 6th, at 2 p.m., and encamped on the verge of the Tulé,
being unwilling to run the risk of remaining all night upon the plain beyond. It
rained tremendously all night, and we were glad to take the road at daylight in
the morning. We crossed the Tulé safely, but found the road beyond extremely
heavy and covered in some places with water. These we passed without difficulty,
observing to keep carefully in the road, which being packed by travel, was not
as dangerous as the plain upon each side. We had arrived within half a mile of
“Puta” creek, when I observed with astonishment and alarm that a strong
current was setting down the road, and that the water was deepening around us
with rapidity. I at once comprehended that the creek had overflowed its banks,
and that we were in a dangerous position. I gave the order to the teamster to
turn about immediately, but it was too late—the mules sank at once on turning
from the road, the wagon was fast blocked in the yielding mud, and the water,
as we afterwards found, was gaining on us at the rate of four feet an hour. It
was with the utmost exertion and no little danger that we succeeded in getting
the mules extricated from the wagon, from which I had already saved my
chronometer and best sextant, my drawing instruments and papers. We were
—
THE TOPOGRAPHICAL REPORTS OF LIEUTENANT GEORGE H.DERBY 1
compelled to abandon the wagon, with the remainder of the instruments ar
all our personal property, and return to Sacramento City, where I disposed
my animals at auction.2° The whole of the valley, I found upon my return, he
been made a perfect quagmire by the recent rains, and several wagons had be:
lost on the same day in the attempt to go to Frémont from Sacramento City.
arrived at Benicia on the 10th of November, from which place I had the hon
to send you a detailed report of the loss of my wagon, and other circumstanc
connected with my expedition. From the above general summary of the journ
kept while engaged upon the expedition, and from the accompanying map, :
idea may be obtained of the geographical position of that portion of the val
_ mentioned in my instructions, and, as far as the means of communication, i
: Capability of supplying forage, and its agricultural character are concerned,
‘its general and military resources. It will be seen that there is no point in th
portion of the valley at which a military post can by any possibility be require
that is absolutely free from objection. That already selected combines as mar
advantages in a military point of view as it is possible to obtain. A position
the north Butte, or upon Butte creek, at some point near the crossing of Lav
son’s route, would be undoubtedly more pleasant in every respect, perfect!
healthy, and would possess every requisite for the comfortable subsistence an
shelter of the troops; but beyond the attaining of these points, I can concei\
of. no advantages to be derived from establishing a post in that vicinity. The:
would be no inhabitants to protect, and nothing in fact to protect them fror
As far as regards buélding materials, all points are equally eligible. The soil «
any portion of the valley mixed with water and chopped grass, and exposed .
the sun, makes excellent adobe or sun-dried brick, which is probably mor
economical, easier of working, and better adapted to the climate, than eith
timber or stone. Pine timber may, however, be obtained of the best quality upo
the table-lands at a distance of about twenty miles from the commencement «
the hills; the oak, which forms a greater portion of the timber upon the stream
being too hard and brittle to work easily, and soon decaying when exposed .
the weather. Two steam saw-mills are now in process of erection upon Bez
creek, about four miles above the newly established post, from which, when i
operation, sufficient supplies of pine timber may be obtained.
There are two rancherias of Indians upon the Sacramento, one upon Butt
creek, three upon Feather river, and one upon Bear creek (about ten miles abov
the post,) which have come under my observation. All of these together mu:
contain something under one thousand individuals, men, women, and children.
was informed that upon the Upper Feather and Yuba rivers were some two c
three thousand living in the hills, but whether belonging to the same tribe wit
* those of the valley I could not ascertain. All that I have seen appear equall
ugly, harmless, and inoffensive; but, being perfectly barbarous, and acting, as
imagine, more from instinct than reason, they are liable to commit, at an
moment, some unexpected outrage, for which neither themselves nor any on
else can assign a reason. I was informed that the rancheria upon the Sacra